Saturday, July 23, 2005
Kayes, Mali
Peace Corps volunteers warned us about the border crossing we were about to use coming into Mali. The police will issue visas unofficially, they said, but sometimes they turn people away if they are not liked. Knowing this, the three of us turn on the charm at the police station and joke with them about the $20 "penalty" necessary to purchase the visa, insinuate an extremely funny lack of sexual prowess of that Fula man (Sean), and agree with their interpretation of our voyage as folle (crazy, for all you non-French speakers). Twenty minutes and a whole lot of jokes later, we drive off towards Kayes on another brand new road (Mali is also HIPC). We are happy of our success at crossing borders the back way, but also because Mali was one of my favorite countries on my last trip through this region. After talking with volunteers in Kayes, the road to Bamako does not seem straightforward anymore. It seems the rain has taken out a bridge in an area known for banditry. Instead, we scout another road that would lead us to the capital in a roundabout fashion. There happens to be beautiful waterfalls called "Les Choutes de Fallou" down this road... A flat tire in the hottest hour of the day. River crossings with bags over our heads through a hydroelectric plant. Some heinous worms that invaded Nate's pants. A road side application of rash powder (worm check). An intense sunburn... We stagger back into Kayes humbled, but glowing over our experience at these beautiful falls. The beauty overrides all of the fuck ups. We still wonder whether this road is out of the question. Why not just lay back and relax? Think about it for a day or two.
Peace Corps volunteers warned us about the border crossing we were about to use coming into Mali. The police will issue visas unofficially, they said, but sometimes they turn people away if they are not liked. Knowing this, the three of us turn on the charm at the police station and joke with them about the $20 "penalty" necessary to purchase the visa, insinuate an extremely funny lack of sexual prowess of that Fula man (Sean), and agree with their interpretation of our voyage as folle (crazy, for all you non-French speakers). Twenty minutes and a whole lot of jokes later, we drive off towards Kayes on another brand new road (Mali is also HIPC). We are happy of our success at crossing borders the back way, but also because Mali was one of my favorite countries on my last trip through this region. After talking with volunteers in Kayes, the road to Bamako does not seem straightforward anymore. It seems the rain has taken out a bridge in an area known for banditry. Instead, we scout another road that would lead us to the capital in a roundabout fashion. There happens to be beautiful waterfalls called "Les Choutes de Fallou" down this road... A flat tire in the hottest hour of the day. River crossings with bags over our heads through a hydroelectric plant. Some heinous worms that invaded Nate's pants. A road side application of rash powder (worm check). An intense sunburn... We stagger back into Kayes humbled, but glowing over our experience at these beautiful falls. The beauty overrides all of the fuck ups. We still wonder whether this road is out of the question. Why not just lay back and relax? Think about it for a day or two.
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