Friday, April 21, 2006
Gaborone, Botswana 3.22.2006
Botswana is often acclaimed as "Africa's success story." Since independence in 1966, the country has been led by moderate leaders who, uniquely in Africa, have consistently allowed multi-party elections. With the discovery of diamonds in the late 60's that currently account for 30% of the world's supply, the previously weak economy was significantly bolstered. Good governance and a remarkable lack of corruption became normal routine in Botswana. Between 1970 and 1990, Botswana had the fastest growing economy in the world at an astonishing 13% rate and it now enjoys one of the highest GDPs per capita in Africa.
Gabs, the capital of Botswana, tends to gets unpleasant reviews. It's been called "a sprawling village", "drab", and "lacking in definition". I wasn't expecting much when we pulled into the city. We planned on liaising with Kevin, a Peace Corps volunteer working in the AIDS sector, researching a few organizations, and getting out of town as swiftly as possible. While navigating the city was initially challenging, as we once again had to rely on incomplete and outdated maps, Gabs looked okay. While there were no impressively expensive public monuments, strikingly tall buildings, or chic central hang outs, the sprawling village looked decently well off. There didn't seem to be slums on the outskirts and nearly everybody appeared to be living moderately well. There was definitely money there, but many of the excesses of other capitals were not as evident.
The contrasts with Namibia were strong. In many ways, the countries are similar. They both have small populations; culturally noteworthy groups such as the Herero and San (bushmen) make up an important subsection of both. Large portions of land in Namibia and Botswana are consumed by dramatic deserts, such as the Kalahari and the Namib. They both have significant mineral resources. However, where Namibia struggled under apartheid for many years and has a very recent history of hostility between blacks and whites, Botswana has grown vigorously as a nation since independence in 1966. Under black leadership, Botswana took significant steps to avoid the same racial problems that Namibia, South Africa, and Zimbabwe are even now experiencing.
Just coming from Namibia, it was fascinating to see an African country that had been run efficiently for 40 years. In West Africa, major cities are often "blessed" with impressive monuments and vast "revolutionary" squares constructed at an incredibly high cost to the average person; Gabs in contrast seems content to under whelm. While this hasn't contributed to making the city especially dynamic or vibrant, it has given it a very healthy feel where people of all classes, colors and sexes can mingle relatively smoothly. This alone makes Gabs an attractive place for me and I look forward to enjoying what are likely to be a few uneventful but enjoyable days in the capital.
Botswana is often acclaimed as "Africa's success story." Since independence in 1966, the country has been led by moderate leaders who, uniquely in Africa, have consistently allowed multi-party elections. With the discovery of diamonds in the late 60's that currently account for 30% of the world's supply, the previously weak economy was significantly bolstered. Good governance and a remarkable lack of corruption became normal routine in Botswana. Between 1970 and 1990, Botswana had the fastest growing economy in the world at an astonishing 13% rate and it now enjoys one of the highest GDPs per capita in Africa.
Gabs, the capital of Botswana, tends to gets unpleasant reviews. It's been called "a sprawling village", "drab", and "lacking in definition". I wasn't expecting much when we pulled into the city. We planned on liaising with Kevin, a Peace Corps volunteer working in the AIDS sector, researching a few organizations, and getting out of town as swiftly as possible. While navigating the city was initially challenging, as we once again had to rely on incomplete and outdated maps, Gabs looked okay. While there were no impressively expensive public monuments, strikingly tall buildings, or chic central hang outs, the sprawling village looked decently well off. There didn't seem to be slums on the outskirts and nearly everybody appeared to be living moderately well. There was definitely money there, but many of the excesses of other capitals were not as evident.
The contrasts with Namibia were strong. In many ways, the countries are similar. They both have small populations; culturally noteworthy groups such as the Herero and San (bushmen) make up an important subsection of both. Large portions of land in Namibia and Botswana are consumed by dramatic deserts, such as the Kalahari and the Namib. They both have significant mineral resources. However, where Namibia struggled under apartheid for many years and has a very recent history of hostility between blacks and whites, Botswana has grown vigorously as a nation since independence in 1966. Under black leadership, Botswana took significant steps to avoid the same racial problems that Namibia, South Africa, and Zimbabwe are even now experiencing.
Just coming from Namibia, it was fascinating to see an African country that had been run efficiently for 40 years. In West Africa, major cities are often "blessed" with impressive monuments and vast "revolutionary" squares constructed at an incredibly high cost to the average person; Gabs in contrast seems content to under whelm. While this hasn't contributed to making the city especially dynamic or vibrant, it has given it a very healthy feel where people of all classes, colors and sexes can mingle relatively smoothly. This alone makes Gabs an attractive place for me and I look forward to enjoying what are likely to be a few uneventful but enjoyable days in the capital.
1 Comments:
Sean-
Just got around to reading your review of Gabs. Thanks my friend! I think you're right, one of the best things about this place is that there is a very health mix of people, and that makes a strong community.
Getting ready to leave Gabs soon. Heading north next week. We have to move fast though, so we'll be in Dar by June 1st. If you're around then, would be great to meet up. Otherwise, travel well and enjoy the hell out of Mozambique (I know you will!).
Later,
Kevin
P.S. Sorry to hear about your hold up in Joburg. It's scary how often the area around Park Station lives up to its reputation.
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Just got around to reading your review of Gabs. Thanks my friend! I think you're right, one of the best things about this place is that there is a very health mix of people, and that makes a strong community.
Getting ready to leave Gabs soon. Heading north next week. We have to move fast though, so we'll be in Dar by June 1st. If you're around then, would be great to meet up. Otherwise, travel well and enjoy the hell out of Mozambique (I know you will!).
Later,
Kevin
P.S. Sorry to hear about your hold up in Joburg. It's scary how often the area around Park Station lives up to its reputation.
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