Monday, December 05, 2005
Banki, Nigeria
The military, my greatest fear in Nigeria, detained us for over a week in Maiduguri. It all began as we approached the outskirts of the city with a single soldier on the road. Instead of pleading for a bribe, he encouraged us to visit the Air Force Officers Mess, where supposedly every Friday a disco was held. After arriving in town and asking around, it seemed as if this was the only option. While the city of Maiduguri seeks to enforce sharia law, it sounds like they are having no luck with the military; their desire to have a few beers and dance in the evenings will not be tempered. Yet, since we've heard so many negative things about the military in Nigeria, the very idea of walking into one of their bases on a night when many of them would probably be drinking seemed ridiculous.
Nevertheless, we arrived early at the mess hall and one of the guards informed us it was a members only club. However, he would go in and check with the Major. The Major came out, said that usually they didn't allow non members in, but we could enter as his guests for the evening. Over the course of the night, we had an opportunity to chat with him and he invited us back to the club the following day for table tennis. During the next week, we found ourselves back at the Air Force Officers Mess on a daily basis. The Major took us on a tour of the city. He introduced us to a number of his friends, including his boys from Abuja: Jacko, Bosson and Joe. We were given honorary guest status at the club. All of our food and drinks for the remainder of our time in Maiduguri were on the house.
The Major also introduced us to Jamima, a reporter with Nigerian state television. She quickly took an interest in our work. After hearing that we regularly ate fara, or deep fried grasshoppers (a Maiduguri delicacy), she insisted on putting us on the air. Jamima invited us down to the station and filmed a seven minute segment on our campaign, which later led the Sunday feature.
After over a week in Maiduguri, we found it difficult to leave. Jamima, her husband Toyin, and the Major presented us each with handsome Nigerian outfits. We gave them a cake with 'To The best Nigerians Ever...' written on top, encircled with a table tennis racket, an airplane and a microphone. After having completely demolished all of my expectations about Nigeria, they have turned it into the country I wish most to return to.
We couldn't even escape the hospitality leaving Nigeria. Our team was given a personal escort to the border by the Chief of Banki Customs, where we had planned on exiting Nigeria. He ensured that while we sat and drank fantas, all of the usually rigorous paperwork and customs duties on both sides of the border would be taken care of. Our car was even washed while we waited.
Truly, the Nigeria we experienced was an unexpected joy. Although I only passed through the north, I felt angry at all the people that had spoken ill of Nigeria and tried to discourage us from coming with tales of danger, corruption and chaos. After meeting a large number of Nigerians who turned out to be the some of the best friends any of us have so far met on our journey, I know that I will be back.
The military, my greatest fear in Nigeria, detained us for over a week in Maiduguri. It all began as we approached the outskirts of the city with a single soldier on the road. Instead of pleading for a bribe, he encouraged us to visit the Air Force Officers Mess, where supposedly every Friday a disco was held. After arriving in town and asking around, it seemed as if this was the only option. While the city of Maiduguri seeks to enforce sharia law, it sounds like they are having no luck with the military; their desire to have a few beers and dance in the evenings will not be tempered. Yet, since we've heard so many negative things about the military in Nigeria, the very idea of walking into one of their bases on a night when many of them would probably be drinking seemed ridiculous.
Nevertheless, we arrived early at the mess hall and one of the guards informed us it was a members only club. However, he would go in and check with the Major. The Major came out, said that usually they didn't allow non members in, but we could enter as his guests for the evening. Over the course of the night, we had an opportunity to chat with him and he invited us back to the club the following day for table tennis. During the next week, we found ourselves back at the Air Force Officers Mess on a daily basis. The Major took us on a tour of the city. He introduced us to a number of his friends, including his boys from Abuja: Jacko, Bosson and Joe. We were given honorary guest status at the club. All of our food and drinks for the remainder of our time in Maiduguri were on the house.
The Major also introduced us to Jamima, a reporter with Nigerian state television. She quickly took an interest in our work. After hearing that we regularly ate fara, or deep fried grasshoppers (a Maiduguri delicacy), she insisted on putting us on the air. Jamima invited us down to the station and filmed a seven minute segment on our campaign, which later led the Sunday feature.
After over a week in Maiduguri, we found it difficult to leave. Jamima, her husband Toyin, and the Major presented us each with handsome Nigerian outfits. We gave them a cake with 'To The best Nigerians Ever...' written on top, encircled with a table tennis racket, an airplane and a microphone. After having completely demolished all of my expectations about Nigeria, they have turned it into the country I wish most to return to.
We couldn't even escape the hospitality leaving Nigeria. Our team was given a personal escort to the border by the Chief of Banki Customs, where we had planned on exiting Nigeria. He ensured that while we sat and drank fantas, all of the usually rigorous paperwork and customs duties on both sides of the border would be taken care of. Our car was even washed while we waited.
Truly, the Nigeria we experienced was an unexpected joy. Although I only passed through the north, I felt angry at all the people that had spoken ill of Nigeria and tried to discourage us from coming with tales of danger, corruption and chaos. After meeting a large number of Nigerians who turned out to be the some of the best friends any of us have so far met on our journey, I know that I will be back.
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